May 04 2010

Spring has sprung at Fazio’s with our new menu!

Published by Chef Tomasso under Restaurant Notes

Welcome to Spring! There is nothing like the Spring air to energize you, get you out in the world and enliven the senses. It’s been a long cold winter and the cold is behind us now. Time to gear up for the season, start thinking about the garden, the sun and warm weather. This time of year there is nothing better than freshly grilled meats, fish, chicken and vegetables. Grilling is a typical Italian way to cook food in an uncomplicated manner. The secret is in the marinade. Olive oil, spices such as, rosemary, basil, fresh ground black pepper and garlic, bring out natural flavors. Adding in a small amount of acid, such as lemon or balsamic vinegar breaks down the proteins and tenderizes the meat. No heavy sauces are necessary, just the natural juices to complement what we grill. Roasted potatoes with red onions are a must accompaniment. Our new blackboard menu will run through the season featuring “Verdure alla Griglia”; grilled fresh garden vegetables or “Pesce”; fresh locally available fish, served over capellini pesto. Or try our “Petti di Pollo”; grilled boneless breast of chicken or Bisteca; Grilled Skirt Steak, served over roasted potatoes and vegetables. A Spring favorite is “Scampi alla Griglia con Linguini Pesto”; jumbo shrimp, grilled to order, tossed with pesto, olive oil, lemon, fresh tomatoes, and homemade linguini. Chicken and Skirt Steak are grilled and topped with gourmet greens, fresh tomatoes and drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette. Zucchini, summer squash, eggplant, red onions and portabella mushrooms are grilled and served over angel hair pasta tossed with pesto and topped with gourmet greens and balsamic vinaigrette. Locally available fish are grilled and served over pesto pasta and topped with an arugula and fennel salad with lemon vinaigrette. What an exciting time to cook and eat! Why not join us soon and bring a friend.
Ciao for now, Chef Tomasso.

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Mar 27 2010

Freshness Counts

Published by Chef Tomasso under Restaurant Notes

As the chef, owner and buyer for our small Italian Trattoria, I meet with sales people and inspect all the food I order. This hands on approach helps control the quality of the product we produce. “Fresh foods cooked to order” has always been our motto. With the trend towards “Real Foods” becoming more popular and people looking for more value for their dollar, I wanted to let the customer know what makes the food at Fazio’s special. The popularity of chain style Italian restaurants has grown. Let’s face it, they are inexpensive so you can feed the whole family and it tastes good. So why would you pay more? The educated palette will insist on fresh produce, fish, meats, as well as freshly prepared soups, sauces and foods cooked to order.

Fresh foods prepared to order have a greater value to the consumer  because you are getting more nutrition for your dollar and not just empty calories from the processed foods that these large chain restaurants use. Just like the a fast food cheeseburger, they are cheap, taste great, but twenty minutes later your body crashes. I am not talking about some fad food trend, it’s an old-fashion common sense approach to food: “fresh food cooked to order”. At Fazio’s our bread and pasta is produced daily on premise using the finest raw ingredients. Our produce is always fresh, as well as the meats, poultry, and fish. Salad dressings, soups and desserts are all made in house. Very simply, we buy fresh foods and  prepare them in house and cook them to order. Primal cuts of meat, whole fish, fresh locally grown shellfish, local produce in season are our mainstay.

The truth is, it is hard to tell (even if you are at a fine dining establishment) if the food, like mashed potatoes, is freshly cooked or comes frozen in ready-serve bags. When food is precooked and frozen like this it is stripped of its fiber and some of its vitamins when it is processed and preservatives are used. Somewhere along the line the foodservice salesman has convinced the chef that he can save money on labor, and this is just this tip of the iceberg. This is when it all start to go down hill. Convenience over quality. Prepackaged grilled chicken, loaded with nitrates- dead food. You know how delicious freshly grilled chicken and meats are with their natural juices flowing. Why would you pay for precooked chemically altered chicken on a salad? Escoffier would turn over in his grave. Frozen alfredo sauce, frozen meatballs, precooked pizza shells, vacuum packed soups, bottled salad dressings, precut salads soaked in preservatives. This is not “fresh food cooked to order” it is something else entirely.

Be knowledgeable when you dine, spend your hard earned money wisely, be kind to your body and “eat well”.

Chef Tomasso

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Mar 01 2010

Wine

Published by eileen under Restaurant Notes

“Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant and every day more civilized.”
Andre Simon, Commonsense of Wine

There is no better accompaniment to Italian cooking than Italian wine. It compliments the food we eat with its aromas, textures and flavors. It is an essential element to the Italian table. It brings together the experience of sharing a meal and creates a sense of well being. Like breaking bread, wine too is to be shared in communion with others.
Italians are very proud of their wine heritage.  It produces and exports more wine than any other country.  The twenty regions that make up Italy are all unique in their topography and climate. From the mountain regions of the Alps to the rich rolling hills and ample sunshine of Tuscany make Italy a prime place to grow grapes. This is why Italy offers the greatest variety in types of wine than you can imagine.
Italy has hundreds of indigenous grapes, the most popular being the Sangiovese grape used in the making of Chianti. Other grapes include Piedmonts’ Nebbiolo (producing Barolo) and Venice’s Corvina which is the principal grape in Valpolicella and Amarone.
Being an Italian restaurant that makes fresh pasta and wonderful sauce, red wine has always been our biggest sellers. Here is a list and description of some of our favorites. Of course you be the final judge.
Chianti Classico, Castello di Gabbiano, Tuscany-Chianti Classico is a bright, ruby red color in the glass, with a light floral bouquet reminiscent of violets and fruity blackberry on the nose. Rich tannins and flavors of black pepper, sweet spices, and a touch of light, toasted oak fill dry, medium-bodied palate, while the finish is persistent and clean. www.gabbiano.com
Centine, Villa Banfi, – What is commonly called a Super Tuscan this wine has a combination of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. A fruity young red, with crushed berry and mineral character on a soft, silky medium-to-full body, with plump fruit and a clean finish. Always  a good value.
Primitivo, A-Mano, Puglia-  A-mano which means “hand-made” is handcrafted from indigenous Primitivo grapes (the original source of Zinfandel). This wine is fruit packed and food friendly and expresses the region’s highest quality.
Valpolicella Classico ,”Bonacosta” Masi, Venice- Made with 70% Corvina grapes this wine has refreshing nose with hints of violets and raspberries and intense tastes of ripe cherries.  Valpolicella has a long dry finish and is versatile enough to go with many dishes from pasta to roasts. Bonacosta refers to the area at the foot of the slopes where the grapes are grown for Amarone.
Campofiorin Ripasso, Masi, Venice- In 1964 the Masi Winery introduced the technique of “appassimento” (drying of the grapes). This combined with double fermentation make this wine made of indigenous Amarone grapes rich, full-bodied, round and velvety.
All these wines are available on Fazio’s Wine List.

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Feb 01 2010

Homemade Pasta

Published by Chef Tomasso under Restaurant Notes

Durum wheat, semolina & egg

It became clear early on that Fazio’s needed to stand out from other Italian restaurants on Cape Cod in order to be successful. Quality homemade pasta was something that no other restaurant was bothering to do. After much research, we developed a line of pasta to encorporate into our menu. Keeping with the basic theme of our restaurant, we wanted to produce a hearty and tooth-some pasta that we could flavor and cut into various widths. We only use 4 ingredients in our pasta: the finest durum wheat and semolina, fresh eggs, and water. The dough is mixed, and spices such as black and red pepper, spinach, basil, and rosemary can be added. The pasta machine we use presses the dry, sawdust-like dough between two rollers to create long pasta sheets. These sheets are cut and fed through dies, cutting the pasta into different widths such as angel hair, linguini, tagliatelle, and fettucine. The end result is a dense pasta that cooks up al dente and holds that texture all the way to the table. Small hand-crank home machines produce bubble-gum texture pasta that ends up cooking up like egg noodles. They do not apply enough pressure to mix the semolina.

Restaurants that bring in fresh pasta use products that contain long lists of ingredients consisting of preservatives and inferior-grade flours. There are a few brands of dried pasta on the market that I would recommend, Dececco being one of them. Most restaurants refuse to spend the money to afford them. Pasta should be served al dente which is tough to the bite. Inexpensive dry pasta will not produce an al dente product. If you have to use dry pasta, buy the best. Imported for certain.
Correct cooking of pasta is essential. Rapidly boiling water of course. Salt, salt, salt, don’t forget the salt. I once worked for an Italian chef in San Francisco who claimed to have cooked pasta in salt water from the mediteranian sea. The pasta will absorb the salted waster and give it flavor. If you miss this step the pasta will be bland.
Many cookbooks include oil. I have never seen the reason for this as the oil and water will seperate. Perhaps to keep the pasta from sticking during the cooking process. My method is much simpler “stir the pasta and it wont stick”. Cooking time is most important. Taste the pasta. Use your teeth to test for that texture that is slightly tough and not crunchy or soft. Bite a noodle in half

Homemade Linguini

Homemade Linguini

during the cooking process. You will see a white ring of uncooked pasta in the center. The pasta is cooked as soon as that ring turns opaque. If the ring is gone you have overcooked your pasta. Remember the pasta will keep cooking all the way to the table so under cook if possible. Cooling and reusing is not recomended but possible. Strain and cool by submerging in cold water to stop the cooking as soon as possible.

Enjoy one of our homemade pasta dishes such as tagliatelle pepe nero salsiccia e melanzane, which is black pepper tagliatelle in a tomato sauce served with diced eggplant and sausage. Become a pasta connesieur. The next time you are out for pasta examine the bite and the consistancy of the pasta you are eating and don’t settle for less than a quality product.  Dine with us at Fazio’s Trattoria and experience pasta at it’s finest. You will surely taste the difference.
- Chef Tomasso

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Jan 09 2010

Bread is Life

Published by Chef Tomasso under Restaurant Notes

When I opened Fazio’s Trattoria on Main street in Hyannis in 1989 after leaving San Francisco, it became clear that there were no bakeries producing the rustic loaves I was used to using in the North Beach where I ran Italian kitchens for ten years. I began the process of developing the rustic loaves that I bake today.

Flour is the key to my success. I use only King Arthur Special Blend, “Never Bleached, Never Bromated”. This is hard red spring wheat from the great plains 12-13% protein. All purpose flours simply do not come near this level. High protein is necessary to build strong gluten. We’ll get to to that later. The second element is yeast. I use a natural yeast in my bread combined with a commercial yeast. Natural or “wild” yeast is a naturally occurring spore found in the air. Not found in sterile environments, it thrives in well-used bakeries. Fazio’s is housed in a former bakery, making it an ideal environment for baking bread. The commercial yeast, which is basically a sugar-eating fungus, provides a strong and predictable method to make the bread rise. The natural yeast, although unpredictable, gives our bread large holes, light texture, and great flavor. Back to the gluten. The gluten produced by the high protein content of the flour provide a strong elastic web to contain the large CO2 air bubbles produced by the wild yeast, and the alcohol produced in this process gives our bread a slightly sour taste. Temperature is the last leg of our process. When I work with wild yeast it is important to control the temperature. The ideal temperature is 75 degrees F, ensuring a slow rise. This means averaging the temperature of the room and flour, allowing for the friction of the mixer, and adjusting the water temperature to get a final product that is 75 degrees. Salt is an important part of my bread. However, because salt kills yeast, it must be added last in the mixing process. What I have described here is a combination of commercial yeast bread and a sour dough levan method. If you are interested in baking rustic bread “The Village Baker” by Joe Ortiz is a serious start. Also, check out www.kingarthurflour.com

Next time you eat out, take a moment and consider the bread you are being served. You would be surprised to know that the majority of restaurants serve frozen par-baked breads. These products are so processed that they provide less nutritional value. We bake our bread fresh daily. Come taste the difference. Bread, after all, is life.

- Chef Tomasso

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